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What is a fair price to have the starter replaced (on an Acura RSX)?

Dec 20, 2008 by PostGrungeJunky | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

Hi! My stater went out, and I was wondering what is a fair price for its replacement including parts and labor?

Most of the places I've called said my car comes with either 1 of 2 different starters, a Denso or a Mitsuba. The general

Apparently Saul hasn't changed many starters. Sure, some can be removed in a matter of minutes while others are nearly impossible to get to and are a royal pain. As to the brand of starter, take your car's model and serial numbers to an auto parts store

Denso Starter Fix

This is my experience using the information in the starter fix video: www.youtube.com My car is a 1998 Outback - automatic

How to bench test a starter motor

How to test a starter motor before installation

Marine Starter Burned up

Two very over worked Boat Starters. The Outboard Starter was cooked with new battery completely run down by trying to start a 120 hp Force Engine ...

Roundel mount patch

As I worked on getting the Lotus ready for last week's show I started a list of a the little things it needs. Turned out to be a pretty long list. I decided to try taking the Lotus to the shop on Sundays and knocking off a few at a time as I work on the E9, but before I do that I want to improve its starting. Currently it only cranks from the booster battery, and when the engine is hot even the booster has a hard time getting it going. Funny thing is, once it starts to crank it turns very fast. I already changed out the original starter with a Denso reduction gear model from Dave Bean (see photos). I brought home my toolbox today and plan on checking all of the grounds in the starting circuit. I don't think it's heat from the headers, because it also happens, to a lesser extent, from a cold start. Today was just a continuation of the E9 nose job, which has progressed to the roundel mount. I hand formed one several months ago and since it turned out better than expected I decided to use it. To get started I had to measure everything very carefully and come up with a way to position the patch after the original is removed. In the process I discovered that the existing mount is offset to the right (to the left in the photos, which are upside down), about 1/8 in. After getting the alignment worked out and a rough cut on the rear edge it was time to put some bend in the patch. This does not need to be perfect, just good enough to slip under the existing good metal. For this I held it in the vise and whacked it with a hammer on a hardwood block, moving 1/8 in. at a time, then a little smoothing witha convex faced hammer on a sand bag.

Source: The E9 Eating Rust Project